Swak up

Greeted with palm-lined streets, seaside promenades, a pleasantly cooler climate and beaches we felt like we were in an oasis compared to the red deserts of Purros. We to spend a quick 2 nights in Swakopmund, a vacation town in northwest Namibia.  The city is situated in the Namib desert and is an example of German colonial architecture. It was founded in 1892 as the main harbor for German South-West Africa quickly becoming the main port for imports and exports for the whole territory. In 1915, the area was taken over by the Union of South African and all harbor activities were transferred from Swakopmund to Walvis Bay, slowing down the once prosperous town. But Swakopmund potential has subsequently picked up again due to tourism. Though it is a unique person that finds himself here, we never met any Americans but we did meet people from Bhutan.

Landing in Swakopmund happened with quite a forceful bang – our plane’s tire broke on landing.  Luckily our pilot scooted us down the tarmac safely and we were soon met with lots of airport vehicles and even a security plane flew over us because a military office is near the airport.  Our presence was known.

At this point we had a full day to ourselves, which was a nice change.  After a refreshing beer, a stop at a unique antique shop, a visit to the natural history museum we were soon walking on the beach talking to locals and fending off crashing waves.  It was a good pace.

 

The next day we took a sail trip around Walvis Bay.  The major highlight of the boat trip was the oysters served at lunch.  It was unknown to me but Walvis Bay has some of the most optimal waters for oysters and they grow faster here than most other countries.  Also, there was a welcome shot when we boarded, which set the stage for a very relaxing afternoon on the catamaran boat.  We had a seal come on board, tons of shore birds, dolphins, and a sunfish.  It was a wonderful afternoon on the water and a pleasant trip in between the safari runs.

Click the photo above for the Swakupmond album. 

 

Dune

Our next location was to the Purros conservation site, a short plane ride northeast flying near the Angola border, an arid semi-desert and sparse savannah with less than 100mm average annual rainfall. The landscape is a mixture of hills, plains and wooded river valleys.  These river valleys introduce the most vivid colors of green in a landscape that is primarily one color – a dusty dune red.

This experience was very different from Etosha.  The Purros conservation is not a gated national park, it is a camp site located next to a huge river valley that is home to two herds of desert elephants and of course the other usual suspects: baboons, antelope, zebras and oryxs. But what was introduced to us here was a Sun Downers! An evening cocktail discernibly served during the sunset.  It is the most pleasant time of day in the desert -the air is still, the sun offers its final remarks and you are met with cool air. Sundowners = Happy Coco!

Our days around Purros were spent driving in open 4×4 vehicles looking for wildlife, seemingly the only vehicle for miles.  There are no paved roads and our guides pretty much drove where ever they wanted. Luckily the navigational skills of these seasoned guides know exactly where to turn and how to get back.  Every ridge we passed we found huge herds of bamboos or we’d come across a group of ostrich that became spooked and ran in a frantic stupor.  We never found the elusive elephants but we did find an ominous owl, a scorpion, and got really close to the visually spectacular oryx.

Deep in this valley lives the Hima tribe.  This tribe has adapted to live in the desert and rely on the seasonal Hoarusib River.  The houses were like little sun soaked mud igloos and all faced the center displaying their power of a united community. The people would grind down the local desert rocks making a paste to use as a sunscreen.  As well, the women have matted their hair and applied the paste to keep it from blowing in the desert wind and are adorned with different head garments exhibiting marital status, and shells and jewelry are worn showing trading that has gone on in the villages.   The tribe we visited did not seem the most authentic and I’m sure it gets its fair share of tourist but it was an introduction to how people have adapted to live in these conditions.  They were all exquisite, even the chain-smoking grandmother.

This place was the most remote destination of our Namibia tour, which definitely offered some difficulties and it was hot as hell but the stars were huge. I could locate the southern star with no problem. It felt like I was on the other side of the world.

Click the photo above for the Purros photo album.

Row, row, row your boat

Inle Lake, Shan State, Myanmar (Burma)

The second largest lake in Myanmar, Inle Lake is one of the more spectacular places I’ve been.  A welcomed cooler temperature, this lively lake is tucked up near the Shan hills and is notorious for fisherman that row and maneuver their boats with the help of their leg. Local fishermen are known for their distinctive rowing style, which involves standing at the stern on one leg and wrapping the other leg around the oar giving them more strength and ability to use their hands for fishing. This unique style evolved because reeds cover the lake and floating plants making it difficult to see while sitting.  The other thing we found most fascinating was how villagers have developed whole neighborhoods on the lake.  I had seen stilted house on the water’s shore but not rows upon rows of houses that extended into the lake. Emphasizing the importance of having a reliable boat.

Far from ordinary

Luang Prabang, Laos

Opposite the royal palace, on the lower slopes of Mount Phousi, there is the abandoned temple of Wat Huak.  It’s a dainty temple and the exterior is in dire need of repair, a delightful and elaborate carved wooden facade formerly covered in mosaics, although little remains. The most interesting features are the quirky 19th-century murals decorating the interior walls. And I love murals and these have excellent color. They provide fascinating insights into ordinary life at the time rather than the usual religious themes that one normally finds. It’s easy to be overwhelmed by they grandeur of most of the pagodas in Laos. Wat Huak was my favorite, small and authentically flawed though a sense of importance and dignity emanated threw the wood.

Conscience pirates

Vinh Long, Mekong Delta canals, Vietnam

Motoring along the Mekong Delta in the early morning rattles one’s senses – there are strong putrid smells of drying fish, distant sounds of motorbikes coming from near by towns, the romance of small wooden row boats offering short transfers to one side of the canal to the other, and the warm colors from the locally grown fruit- soft greens and subtle yellows from the pineapples, bright reds and tickles of oranges from the lychees, and vibrant greens from all the many herbs being sold on boats loaded full as vendor’s boat wobble at the lively floating markets.  But I was most taken by these huge girthy boats overflowing with what looked like saw dust.  First impression it’s the ominous painted eyes stalking the oncoming traffic defending their waters and then the impressive size of their loot defying gravity that is most fascinating.  Though shortly I found out that what was on those boats was the husks from the grains of rice.  Once removed this byproduct is typically discarded but here in the Mekong (which grows enough rice to feed all of Vietnam) they use the leftover husks to stoke their fires.  Really using all of a product; I was impressed.